Cuisine de Garden
reviewed by : Melissa Richter
19 July 2017
Located in a unobtrusive building on Ekamai soi 2, Cuisine de Garden is serious about highlighting the concept of the “nature “theme in everything from the food, to the décor and beyond. The color scheme is a muted palette of grey and black accented by wooden floors, with pops of color from white and green flowers and plants. The most striking feature is the dozen or so real tree trunks that populate the space and the atrium garden near the back of the room next to the full service bar. Black granite table tops and mix-matched river stones complete the scene, while strands of twinkling white lights above the bar mimic the gentle glow of fireflies on a balmy summer night.
Chef Nan, Leelawat Mankongtiphan, is the mastermind behind the concept and in the kitchen. He brings to the table the experience garnered from the successful first branch of Cuisine de Garden, which is located in Chiang Mai and opened over 8 years ago. This self-taught chef creates absolutely stunning modern European cuisine by pairing indigenous Thai produce with the finest imported ingredients. You will discover beautifully presented seasonal dishes that are both thoughtful and well executed. The menu highlights the natural elements that inspired each dish, be it a water lily, the moon, or a simple egg. Although you can order dishes a la carte, we highly recommend going on a ‘nature inspired culinary journey’ and indulge in the 4-Chapter set menu which lets you mix and match your courses by choosing your preferred dishes in each category. Priced at just 1,590++ baht per person, this is real value for money. You can additionally elevate your experience by accompanying your meal with a nice wine selection with the help of the in-house sommelier.
For the starter we recommend the RAIN FOREST which is a Beef Tartare w/ Crispy Beef Tuille, Italian Parsley & Cured Egg Yolk Sauce. The beef “cracker” is a revelation and the raw meat is seasoned to perfection. For something lighter, opt for shear perfection of the SEACRET which is Hokkaido Scallop w/ Chayote Compressed, Red Kelp, Lime Air & Ponzu. Another highly recommended offering is chef’s signature dish NEST which is Pulled Chicken w/ Onzen Organic Egg, Crispy Rice Vermicelli & Truffle Scent. This is disarmingly simple yet brilliantly flavorsome with a decadent egg sous vide at 63.5 celsius. Other favorites include the innovative and creamy ECLIPSE of Barley Risotto w/ Dried Anchovy, Crispy Sunchoke & Sunchoke Velouté and the earthy VERMILLION of Duck Confit w/ Pickled Beet, Roasted Beet, and Crispy Beet & Beetroot Sauce. I was also thoroughly impressed with the WATER LILIES of Pan Roasted Halibut w/ Grilled Pickled Lotus Stem, Lotus Seed & Pennywort Purée which almost melts in your mouth, and the immensely satisfying SWAMP of Dry Aged Local Beef Tenderloin w/ Grilled Cabbage Sprout & Garlic Chive Sauce which uses high quality beef. The desserts are no less impressive than the savory offerings and the salty and sour BLOOM of Fermented Guava Sorbet w/ Tapioca Pearl, Brioche Crust & Mountain Herbs is by far one of the most provocative and amazing desserts you will ever try. If you prefer something more traditional, you won’t be disappointed with either the delectable CORAL of Matcha Mousse w/ Black Sesame Sponge, Orange Compote, & Yuzu Sauce or the FARM of Goat Milk Panna Cotta w/ Milk Snow, Macadamia Nut, and Macadamia Flower Honey which is a delicate and harmonious delight.
Open for dinner only Tuesday-Sunday from 6PM-11PM, Cuisine de Garden is delivering a full package gourmet dining experience rooted in the philosophy of honoring the simple pleasures of nature.