Penthouse Bar & Grill
reviewed by : Ken Barrett
25 August 2017
Every new hotel in Bangkok has to have a rooftop restaurant, it would seem, but not all rooftop restaurants are of top-of-the-town quality. And with the opening of Penthouse Bar & Grill, many a five-star hotel managers will be keeping an anxious eye on the roof of the Park Hyatt hotel that has newly opened in the former grounds of the British Embassy.
What the Park Hyatt has done is to go for a grand slam, placing a collection of six venues on three levels from 34 to 36 to scoop up every desire on the part of the city’s innovation-loving night time drinkers and diners.
The design of all the outlets (the garden-style Rooftop Terrace will open when the rainy season is over) follows the perceived style of a New York or Chicago penthouse, with antique and clubby tones, and with wrap-around windows on three sides of the tower affording gasp-inducing views of the city.
We began with a couple of drinks at the Cocktail Bar on level 35 before making our way down the spiral staircase to The Grill on the floor below. Here is marble and glass splendour, and an open kitchen behind a glass screen. Service is the loose, jocular style that the Americans have perfected, while still remaining respectful; in other words, you can with confidence bring anyone here.
Steaks form the core of the menu, with an impressive selection that includes grass-fed prime tenderloin from the USA (1,400 baht for 180g), Charolais tenderloin from France (1,250 baht for 180g), Argentinian striploin churrasco (3,800 baht for 1kg, which is big enough for three or four people), a Matsunaga Wagyu A3 quality striploin from Japan (2,650 baht for 180g), and a Fiorentina porterhouse from Italy (6,000 baht for 1.2kg, enough for two or three diners).
Other meat dishes are listed, and you can even get a prime burger for 750 baht. The small selection of seafood dishes includes a Patagonia toothfish from Australia (1,350 baht) and a whole Canadian lobster (1,750 baht).
For an appetiser we ordered roasted bone marrow (600 baht), and were presented with large cuts of bone packed with tender marrow, and fingers of sourdough for dipping. We also ordered a green salad (430 baht), which with its mix of arugula pesto, avocado, cucumber and lettuce was entirely green; and a red salad (430 baht), which with its beetroot, roasted pepper, tomato radish and pomegranate was entirely red.
We turned to the steak listing for our main course, with a grass-fed prime striploin from the US (1,650 baht), which at 220g was large enough to share; and a Ranger’s Valley ribeye from Australia (1,550 baht), grass-fed, and again at 300g large enough for sharing.
The wine list is every bit as magnificent as anticipated: we started with a Wither Hills sauvignon blanc from New Zealand (350 baht per glass), then had a bottle of Wente Beyer Ranch Zinfandel from San Francisco Bay (1,490 baht), a robust and peppery wine that interacted beautifully with the onslaught of beef.
Despite the fact that Penthouse Bar & Grill opened only in July, the place was buzzing. This has all the makings of a great Bangkok venue.