reviewed by : John Granville
12 December 2018
About: Paris Bangkok had a previous incarnation at Sala Daeng and was popular before closing down about two years ago, so this is a revival that has pleased loyal patrons and which is also easy to reach on foot from the BTS Skytrain at Chong Nonsi, near to the Kukrit House. The style is French bistro food, good robust fare, and it is interesting to see that the restaurant has revived the art of the traditional pressed duck, which makes it the only place in town of which we are aware that now serves this delicacy.
Decor: Set in a smallish house just inside Narathiwat Soi 7,almost invisible beneath the surrounding trees, Paris Bangkok has one of those pleasant tucked-away appearances. There is a dining area outside, set on wooden boards, and the dining room itself has an informal quality, with a beamed ceiling that adds a rustic touch. Total seating is about 120, including a few seats at the bar.
Menu: More than 80 percent of the ingredients are imported from France. We ordered French onion soup (250 baht), made with a rich beef stock, slow cooked and topped with bread and Gruyere cheese. We also had a crab and avocado salad (650 baht), made with brown Brittany crab, the salad lightly dressed and with large chunks of quality crabmeat. The foie gras terrine (590 baht) was rich and creamy, with a good textural profile, and it paired beautifully with cubes of mango. Escargot with garlic butter (390 baht) is of course a classic, the escargots being tender, with a woodsy flavour and lovely hot butter, ideal for sopping up with bread. The main course we had was for two persons, and was 500 grams of raclette and cold cuts with boiled potatoes (1,500 baht). Made with Swiss cheese it is paired with French delicatessens: the cheese is placed on the tableside raclette grill so that it melts and becomes slightly toasted, being then transferred to the plate to be enjoyed with the cold cuts, boiled potato and pickles. We ended our meal with an apple tart tatin (250 baht), served with vanilla ice cream and chantilly cream. Our wine throughout the meal was a Petit Bourgeois Sauvignon Blanc at 1,500 for the bottle. If you are going as a group, there is a ginormous seafood platter for four people, stuffed with two whole Canadian lobsters, Manila clams, crab, oysters, salmon tartar, tuna, squid, and more, and priced at 8,990 baht. The pressed duck is a whole duck, served with foie gras and truffle, and priced at 2,200 baht.
Evaluation: You can dine here at a very reasonable price, and in an easy atmosphere that is both pleasant for couples and convivial for groups. The service was sweet and attentive. There is always room anywhere for good French bistro dining, and despite the newness of the reborn Paris Bangkok, the restaurant was already doing good business.