reviewed by : Melissa Richter
31 July 2019
The long wait is finally over as Mahanakhon Bangkok SkyBar officially opens and stakes its claim as the city’s tallest building for wining and dining in style. The epitome of modern design, this glitzy and glamorous “brasserie” is located in the eye-catching King Power Mahanakhon with its asymmetric “puzzle” piece architecture. Open daily for dinner only, this exclusive restaurant encompasses two levels on the 76th and 77th floor with stunning 360- degree panoramic views of the city.
You enter from the elevators which open up into an arched wood-paneled hallway which serves to magnify the sense of scale and grandeur of the main dining room. The expansive space is bathed in warm natural earth tones of beige, burnt orange and ochre accented by massive glass walls, reflected surfaces in copper and gold and a stunning white marble bar which sits within a textured-glass alcove. One side of the room is dominated by an elegant see-through spiral staircase with a glass elevator in constant motion moving along its center. It functions as a piece of “art in motion” that anchors the space without ever comprising the views or openness of the room. There is also an upstairs mezzanine level which offers a bit more privacy and intimacy, although you do untimely sacrifice some views. Approachable luxury is the overriding vibe and we were told that the French designer was inspired to create an eclectic “Adventurous Traveler” concept which is brought to life with bespoke furniture, and genuine antiques from Asia and Europe with no reproductions on the premises. No detail is too small to be overlooked and even the restroom is breakingly opulent with its design and awe-inspiring views.
The cuisine is stunning with an Asian-Europe inspired menu and an impressive wine list of over 100 varieties as well as classic and signature cocktails. The kitchen is headed up by American Chef Joshua Cameron, who previously worked at New York’s world-renowned Michelin-starred Eleven Madison Park. We started off with the Mr. Jean-Paul Normandy Oysters which are served two ways; Nahm Jim which is warm with a spicy Thai seafood sauce that expertly accentuates the salty, rich brininess of the voluptuous oyster. The second is served cold with a bright and vibrant Pickled Mulberry sauce which deftly showcased the subtle sweetness inherent in the succulent mollusk.
Next up was a brilliant Yum Hua Plee, or Spicy Thai Banana Blossom Salad w/ Giant Grilled River Prawn. To say the prawn was large is an understatement, as it was the size of a small lobster and it was grilled to perfection and remained sweet and tender. The salad is well balanced with a tantalizing heat that had not been dummied down for a Western palate. For the main course, we tried the signature Whole Free Range Chicken w/ Black Garlic & Brioche Stuffing. Served whole and on the bone with feet and claws still attached, Chef Joshua presented the bird tableside for inspection before it is taken back to the kitchen and carved for two. It is smoked in hay and wood chips and is aromatic and stunning to look at. Incredibly moist and tender, when paired with the rich dark gravy and stuffing, it can only be described as a stunning accomplishment with an evocative umami flavor. This was accompanied by a healthy portion of well-seasoned Baby Carrots w/ Labneh, Sumac & Vadouvan. Dessert was a stunningly beautiful Kaffir Lime Cheesecake w/ Passion Fruit, Mango & Mangosteen and a rich and decadent Chocolate Tart w/ Coffee Ganache & Cappuccino Gel. Both were exceptional, and the chocolate dessert was nicely balanced so that it was not overly sweet and the cheesecake was expertly accented with the acidic fruits so that it perfectly cut through the richness of the cheesecake.
Suffice it to say, dining at Mahanakhon Bangkok SkyBar feels like a special occasion. The service is spot on, the cuisine is expertly prepared and the views are second to none. You can dine at a leisurely pace without ever feeling rushed, or crowded, and it is the antithesis of a “tourist trap” as it feels much more high-end. Keep in mind that the rooftop bar is separate from the restaurant and requires an entrance fee to access. However; we were advised that if you dine at SkyBar you can get complimentary access once you have settled your bill. No matter how you slice it this is “height” of luxury and incredible dining experience in the city.