By : MELISSA RICHTER
14 June 2018
Bangkok’s favorite “Natural” wine bar is upping their game with the recent introduction of their new head Chef Gabriele Luna from Italy. Working closely with owner and talented sommelier, Giulio Saverino, there are exciting new plans to expand the menu, and put the focus on artisan ingredients and homemade pasta. “It all begins with the ingredients for me, I cannot make amazing food without amazing ingredients”; said Chef Gabriele, “I started to play with pasta when I was just six years old. My friends, they would all play with video games, but I would play with pasta. Making pasta is my passion!” As for those who love the old Mediterranean inspired menu, there is no need to fret. You will still be able to enjoy their popular healthy and organic favorites such as their vegan nut cheeses, vegetarian tapas and snacks made for sharing.
Never forgetting their roots as Bangkok’s first natural wine bar, both the wines and spirits are made by independent artisanal producers. All the wines on offer are categorized as natural, organic or biodynamic. They then distinguish the characteristics of each wine with an in-house system of symbols created by Giulio that denote if the wine is sustainable, how it was aged, if natural yeast is used and if it is suitable for vegans or vegetarians.
We began our meal with a Brut Nature Cava from Spain which is a dry and crisp sparkling wine. The first course was their signature Beetroot Tartare w/ Sundried & Cherry Tomatoes, Oranges, Herbs & Homemade Vegan Mustard paired with an evocative Occhipinti SP68 Terre Siciliane, 2017 from Italy. This is an “Orange Wine” which is an ancient winemaking technique that is regaining popularity. Pinot Gris and Chardonnay grapes are macerated with their skins on and produced like a red wine for an experience unlike any other. This proved to be an ideal match to the tartare as the smooth wine has no tannins or bitterness and it highlighted the natural sweetness of the fruit and root vegetables in the tartare. Next, we tried the Scallops w/ Foie Gras & Fresh Black Truffle paired with the Naranjo Torontel, 2016. This is another delightful orange wine that is a bit bolder yet effectively cut through the richness of the foie dish. For pasta, we were treated to Chef Gabriele’s stunning homemade Strascinati Mollicati. This is a thick and chewy wide, broad flat noodle that is shaped like huge teardrops. It’s tossed with cacao ricotta sheep cheese and a special crunchy sweet dried pepper from Potenza, Italy. This is a truly unique dish that is satisfying, textural complex, delicious and best enjoyed with a red wine such as the Intellego Kedungu 2015, from South Africa. Dessert consisted of an immaculate Spicy Chocolate Ganache w/ Cardamom Ice Cream & Nuts.
About Eatery is well worth a visit. It’s a casual space that is just as appropriate to pop in for lunch, meet up with friends for dinner or stay late into the wee hours of the morning enjoying the atmosphere and libations.