EAT ME RESTAURANT
By : KEN BARRETT
22 August 2019
Eat Me has been around a long time, 21 years to be exact, and the fact that it remains one of the city centre’s hottest spots, the haunt of celebs, hi-so's, tourists and expats alike, owes much to its almost organic ability to be always slightly ahead of the curve.
We remember the place soon after it opened, and always the food was good, tending towards the unusual and the adventurous. Since the arrival of Tim Butler almost 10 years ago, the food has however evolved along a path that is pretty well unique to this tall, bearded native of Maine, to the point where anyone asked to define the style might scratch his head and say, well, it’s Tim’s style, actually.
What Tim does, essentially, is to roam the far corners of the world looking for the prime producers for his ingredients. For example, the Alaska king crab comes only from the cold, deep waters of Dutch Harbor. King salmon is the rare white variety, caught wild in Alaska. Japan is another favourite hunting ground of Tim’s, and this is where he sources sweetfish, or ayu, and prime Ohmi Wagyu beef.
This preference for seeking out the finest produce has been gaining traction on the menu recently, and so the new Eat Me menu, just released, needed to be explored.
The Bauhaus frontage of Eat Me is almost buried behind greenery, and on this wet night, in our haste, we almost walked past the entrance. We had booked early, at 6pm, but as the restaurant actually opens with a full menu and bar at 3pm, which is a great way to avoid traffic, there were already a considerable number of tables occupied.
We started with half-a-dozen Chico Bay oysters (1,100 baht). Seldom seen in Bangkok, this is a tide-tumbled oyster from the Dyes Inlet on the Puget Sound, on the coast of Washington State. The oysters grow in bags that rise and fall with the tide, a process that forms the development of a deep-cupped shell, and a fat and tender oyster. These are amongst the best oysters we have ever had.
We also had a serving of the Dutch Harbor king crab (1,250 baht), a species that grows to a vast size, and which has a full crabby taste and with a good structure to the meat. The crab was served with a sauce made from miso and Japanese sea urchin.
For the main course one of us had a rack of Australian Salt Bush lamb (1,220 baht), the lamb grazing free-range on the Salt Bush pastures of the Ozzie Outback, resulting in a rich clean flavour for the meat. With this was a vincotto dressing, known as “cooked wine”, as it is made from unfermented grape juice.
Our other main course was Australian Wagyu beef tenderloin (1,650 baht), served with a sauce made from Spanish padron peppers, which have a mild richness that matches very well with the taste and texture of the beef.
A word about the staff – they are all young, lovely, trendy, groovy, very friendly, and they help to give Eat Me its almost indefinable buzz of good cheer.