By : JOHN GRANVILLE
22 February 2019
About: Two siblings, Tim and Bell Vijitratanakit, who both have a background in the culinary arts and design, created Harvest as a restaurant that takes pride in cooking from scratch, using only natural ingredients to serve dishes that are aromatically alluring, wholesomely packed with nutrients, rich in flavours, and are visually striking. Located on Sukhumvit Soi 31. Harvest has become a stylish neighbourhood eatery through its natural simplicity, bucking the trend of slick and flashy gastro pubs and delivering high quality cuisine that is familiar, affordable and prepared to the most exacting levels.
Decor: The down to earth, farm to table concept is reflected in the decor of the restaurant as much as it is on the menu. Tim and Bell have created a place that resembles an old rustic western European countryside farmhouse, with a weathered facade and a farmhouse-like interior. Distressed brick walls, worn wooden flooring, lamps hanging from wooden beams, custom-made tableware and cutlery, and old-school jazz playing in the background evoke a warm, welcoming and intimately cosy rural lifestyle. The bar, known as the Woodshed, has a nice selection of craft beers, whiskies and gins, and wines available by the glass or bottle, the 600 wines featuring a range of organic, biodynamic and natural wines from smaller vineyards. A new addition to the restaurant is the Wine Room on the upper level, which can be used as a private room.
Menu: Tim, Bell and head chef Jeff have created the menu between them. Under the heading The Feast, the menu has a number of dishes that are meant for sharing. Australian Black Angus T-bone with bone marrow (4,000 baht if you include truffle, and weighing in at 700g) needs 40 minutes of cooking time, which is enough to work up a real appetite. The kitchen is very keen on truffle: the 150-day cote de boeuf (4,200 baht for 1.2kg) includes truffle, as does the grilled lobster (3,900 baht). On the starters listing is a truffle mushroom soup (380 baht) and a truffle beef carpaccio (480 baht). We had a char-grilled sous-vide Spanish octopus tentacle with warm fennel and chorizo (680 baht) as an appetiser, and a pumpkin soup (250 baht), served in a carved pumpkin and topped with a light cumin cream. There are a number of pasta dishes, and we had the homemade tagliatelle coq au vin (790 baht), and scallops with truffle risotto (990 baht). One of us had lamb stew (580 baht), a lamb shoulder cooked overnight in navarin sauce, and the other had grain-fed Black Angus rib eye with truffles (1,910 baht), served in a sauce of beef juice and red wine. For dessert: sticky toffee pudding (300 baht), served with a sticky toffee sauce and vanilla ice cream.
Evaluation: Harvest may sound like a simple concept, but an immense amount of work clearly goes into each item on the menu. This is probably the kind of food that one imagines farming communities somewhere in the south of France, or in the Tuscan hills, eat every day. The flavours are honest and the rustic ambience of the restaurant adds to the enjoyment.