By : KEN BARRETT
03 February 2020
About: Bangkok United and Thai National Football Team star Tristan Do, and France-born Sam Nordine, a former pro footballer who is an alumni of the RC Strasbourg academy, opened Ivy 47 about six months ago. The concept is modern French cuisine with premium ingredients, kept at realistic prices and supported by an adventurous wine list. Chef Clement Pellerin, who has a Michelin-star-strewn career that has also included spells in Ireland, Shanghai, Taipei, and The Dome in Bangkok, joined only a few weeks ago and has launched his own highly distinctive menu.
Decor: Ivy 47 is deep into the dead-end Soi 47, as far as you can go, and there is parking space in front of this pretty house, and room for the taxis to turn. This is the former premises of Freebird, which had closed a couple of years ago and had lain empty until now. The interior is raw concrete floor, exposed rafters and pipes, and bare brickwork. A long table runs down the central room for groups, and there are smaller rooms off to the side. A lounge bar is upstairs. HUGE joints of beef ribs hang from the ager cabinet. A big glass cabinet stuffed with wine bottles takes centre stage. Lighting is shrouded in copper shades. Subdued soul music plays. The loos are amongst the most civilised you will find in Bangkok.
Menu: There is a decent list of cocktails, and of botanical gin and tonics, and a small but interesting choice of wines by the glass. The wine list is mostly European, and includes a good selection of sparkling wines, plus three orange wines. We began with oysters, Gillardeau No 4 (140 baht each), plump and juicy and although there were a couple of dips, we ate them from the shell to glug down the brine. Hokkaido scallops (720 baht) arrived on a little bed of anise clippings and with a thick swirl of squid ink. Ravioli (450 baht) was stuffed with seasonal mushrooms and fragrant with winter truffle. Foie gras (650 baht) was gently seared and truffled, served on a slice of brioche. One of us had a main course of lobster (1,300 baht), served as a duo, in the shell and as a patty topped with avocado; the other had Angus short rib (990 baht), grain-fed and aged for 270 days, neatly sliced, medium-rare, and served with a creamy side of blue cheese sauce. Mashed potatoes were infused with truffle. For desserts, a dish named Pure White (220 baht), and consisting of milk in various textures together with rose and raspberry; and a fruity caramelised pear with lavender ice cream (220 baht).
Evaluation: An innovative menu from Chef Clement, who remains anchored to French tradition while bringing his own creativity to each dish. Chef is a genial presence in the restaurant, happy to explain what he is doing. The ingredients are certainly of high quality. No one can complain about the prices. Definitely a premier league French restaurant in Bangkok.