10 August 2017

  • reviewer's rating :
summary : A family business that was established a quarter century ago and which offers traditional recipes in a setting that is like a family home.

Crossing the river of traffic that floods Vibhavadi Rangsit Road during the evening rush hour can be problematical, not the least of the worries being the finding, amongst the jumble of expressway ramps, the entrance to Soi 44; miss that, and you can be washed far downstream by the tide.

Krua Sa Ros Chad is a large family house tucked well into this residential soi, and first-time visitors are well advised to plan their journey there carefully.

Entering through the sliding glass door at the side of the house, the impression is of a very large square room packed with people. Most of these, we are to discover later, are locals who have been coming here for years; indeed, many of them are families, who treat the restaurant as an extension to their own home.

Krua Sa Ros Chad retains its own air of a family home. The furniture is the dark-wood heavy kind, the tables and chairs are of standard domestic issue, big mirrors line the walls along with a jumble of paintings and old photographs, and a grandfather clock chimes solemnly in the corner.

Owner Paisan Santanayothin, a former army officer, opened Krua Sa Ros Chad in 1992. He had collected a lot of traditional recipes and these formed the core of the very large menu that is available today.

The menu is presented as a fat book of photographs, with the names of the dishes in both Thai and English.

We started with a plate of small fish deep-fried (290 baht) and served with flakes of dry garlic. Squid with its own eggs (360 baht) was deep-fried with garlic and served with a sweet chilli dip. The perennial street favourite, tod mun pla, or fish cakes (180 baht), were topped with basil and came with a robust peanut dip. A salad of wing beans and shrimp (260 baht) had the addition of sliced boiled egg.

We had tender slices of beef grilled pink on the inside (280 baht) and a bowl of green curry with chicken (280 baht) with steamed rice. Our final dish was red snapper (580 baht) fried with crunchy little green peppercorns and black pepper sauce, with a side dish of leaves of the bitter gourd (100 baht), stir-fried with garlic.

There were no surprises on the menu: none that we found, anyway. These were all good, original Thai dishes, cooked and served family style, using fresh produce, and modestly priced. Every serving was excellent: there wasn’t a single dud.

We had arrived at 7:00 p.m., at which time the restaurant was in full flow, with every table taken, and the big room noisy with convivial talk. By 8:00 p.m., it was emptying fast, the evening meal over. By the time we left, around 9:00 p.m., only a few tables were occupied. Thai families like to dine early.