By : JOHN GRANVILLE
29 November 2018
About: Take the lift to the 29thfloor and the view through the glass wall is of the expanse of Lumpini Park, with the towers of Siam Square, Ploenchit and Sukhumvit stretching beyond. Park Society is where to go for dinner, while taking the staircase will lead to Park Society Terrace and HI-SO Rooftop Bar. The latter two venues are for the more casual and the party crowds, and have both sheltered seating and seating open to the sky.
Decor: Park Society gives diners a choice of sitting at the chef’s table in the open kitchen, or next to the angled windows where you can watch the vehicle lights streaming along far below. The lighting is subdued, the tables are marble-topped, and there are well-stocked wine racks.
Menu: We had the six-course tasting menu, priced at 3,600++ baht per person, which was launched earlier in November and has a focus mostly on seafood with the only meat dish being the Wagyu striploin. The option with wine pairing, aptly named So Wine Pairing, was at three glasses at 1,000++ baht and six glasses that includes a glass of Moet & Chandon champagne at 2,300++ baht. We, however, started our evening with a chardonnay and pretty much stayed with it through the courses as white wines belong with seafood. The first course was king crab with cucumber, green apple and wasabi sorbet and radish: the sweet tasting Alaskan crab shone through and the pairing of other ingredients provided the right balance to bring the entire dish together with some tartness from the sorbet and the creamy texture from the piping of Dutch yoghurt. East meets West was displayed in the lobster bisque with tom yum, the richness of the bisque counterpointed with the subtle infusion of the tom yum flavours; the chef gently smoking the tom yum herbs for around 10 seconds. Scallop with artichoke, chives, capsicum and parmesan crisps was packed with flavour, the capsicum puree adding a tang to the creamy Hokkaido scallop. Kampachi, one if the most versatile fishes around, was served with the crunch of cauliflower and with uni sauce and Tsar caviar to add a hint of brine. Wagyu striploin was A5 Tajima (most famous from all Wagyu bloodlines) from Japan, and it was cooked medium as per the chef's recommendation, paired with carrots cooked in dissimilar ways, gnocchi, and some fried leeks tossed on top with a truffle sauce. Dessert was Dreaming of Chocolate, with different preparations of Valrhona chocolate, and the welcome tartness of mixed berries.
Evaluation: Park Society is an elegant dining experience and with floor to ceiling windows that showcase Bangkok's skyline and the lush Lumpini Park an ideal place for a romantic meal or dinner with friends and family.