PIZZA MASSILIA RUAM RUDEE
By : KEN BARRETT
28 September 2019
About: There are two Pizza Massilia restaurants in town, one of them at Sukhumvit Soi 49 and this one at Soi Ruam Rudee, which was the first to open. The concept grew out of Pizza Truck, which is a moveable venue (literally a truck) that sets up only during the period November to March. The idea comes from two ultra successful Bangkok-based restaurateurs, chef Luca Appino and Frederic Meyer, who between them have a long list of hit eateries. This is authentic pizza, with almost all the ingredients imported from Italy, including Fior di Latte mozzarella cheese from Agerola, peeled tomatoes from Salerno, culatello ham from Zibello, burrata cheese from Puglia, and Mulino Marino organic flours. Along with the pizza and the pasta, there is a satisfying menu every bit as authentic.
Decor: We had arrived on a rainy Saturday evening, scuttling across Ruam Rudee to the welcoming glow of the restaurant, which has a long frontage directly opposite Ruam Rudee Village. Inside, on the left and looking rather squashed in as the kitchen is directly behind, is the Stefano Ferrara pizza oven, a domed wood-burning, copper-tiled beast that is the Rolls-Royce of pizza baking. The dining room, to the right, is large and can seat about 100 people. A sedate, Regency-style decor adds the kind of elegance not normally associated with pizza restaurants, with walls of duck-egg blue, a couple of faux arched windows, and eccentric antler-shaped chandeliers. We took a window seat, and looked out at the little terrace with its tables, hived off from the road by a low fence, a nice place to sit on a dry evening.
Menu: The menu is big and colourful, with a heroic listing of pizzas: classic pizzas, gourmet pizzas, seafood pizzas, vegetarian pizzas, gluten-free pizzas, and low-carb keto pizzas. There are a number of wines by the glass, including sparkling and champagne, and we ordered a white Velenosi Prope Passerina d'Abruzzo (260 baht), and a red Velenosi Prope Montepulciano d'Abruzzo (260 baht), both of them very drinkable wines. We began with a serving of octopus carpaccio (390 baht), the big, paper-thin slices soused in a fresh lemon dressing, with a sprinkling of sliced almonds. Our eggplant and burrata pizza (390 baht) had the soft, springy crust of the real deal while remaining firm despite the moistness of the topping, which included Italian organic tomato sauce, Italian basil, and extra-virgin olive oil. We also had a salsiccia and friarielli pizza (420 baht), which was topped with Italian sausage, turnip tops and iron-rich knots of spinach. We rounded off with a pasta dish, rigatoni (a larger version of penne pasta) with a ragout of slow-cooked pork ribs in tomato sauce, with a touch of mozzarella to give a slightly gluey texture (350 baht). We cast longing eyes at the main course listing, but this had been a pizza evening and all we could manage was a citron givre dessert (290 baht), candied lemon with lemon sorbet; and an old-style Neapolitan baba (270 baht), with an infusion of rum. And a grappa (220 baht).
Evaluation: Outstanding value pizza, especially given the ingredients and the location. A good venue for families.