By : SANDRINE HUCLIN
01 March 2020
About: This casual eatery of Sukhumvit soi 45, Quince, moved since April 2019 to Siri House, a new urban lifestyle community in Chitlom. Under the same roof, Quince shares this new place with the sassy cocktail bar Jacqueline on the first floor and coffee shop Luka. The restaurant puts forth bold Mediterranean flavors with a focus on flame and smoke.
Decor: In its new location, Quince found its new home in a house with a backyard where patrons can enjoy sitting indoors or outdoors depending on their mood. The vibe is relaxed and stylish, it is like being in a friend’s home with a wood oven fire-grilled kitchen. The atmosphere is definitely warm and is complemented by European design elements that mixes wood furniture, yellow and blue velvet chairs and blue midnight colored walls. When I opened the door of the restaurant, the first thing my mind focused on was the smoky smell coming from the woodfired oven. It permeated the dining room reminding me of a family feast at my grandparent’s home in Northern France.
Menu: Chefs Julien Perraudin and Charlie Jones are leading the kitchen, bringing their experience of home-cooking celebrating local and fresh produce with bold Mediterranean flavors mixed in with Asian flavors. The chefs here cook with a focun on flame and smoke bringing in a new world of flavors. The menu is short and fits in A4 format while the wine list comprises of a large selection of wines from Europe and the New World at an attractive price point. Start with their favorite Hay-Smoked Hamachi (390 baht). The thin slices of Japanese Hamachi served with burnt bloody orange and smoked avocado puree are a delight for any fine gourmet. The orange softens the fish with its citrus and fruity flavors. Seafood lovers will adore Scallop Crudo (590 baht) served with squid ink ponzu, pickled daikon and crispy rice cracker. For the main course, Truffle Spaetzle (610 baht) with shaved black truffles is a must-try. This is a very satisfying pasta dish. Another hit the Aged Barbary Duck Breast (690 baht) seared perfectly, enhanced by the flavors of parsnip and sweet cherries. Keep some room for the dessert, we had Chocolate & Hazelnut (210 baht), a chocolate mousse made from Vietnamese chocolate with salted hazelnut puree. The combination of hazelnut and chocolate is always a winner. If you prefer something a bit more sour, then opt for the Burnt Blood Orange & Milk Ice Cream (240 baht) accompanied with honeycomb and yuzu curd. A nice dessert to round up your meal. It would remind some of you of your childhood - before going to bed, drinking a glass of milk with a spoon of orange flower water and honey. To conclude this meal, complimentary homemade jelly bears made with vodka and coke, negroni would make you smile.
For drinks, you can get a cocktail before or after dinner at the bar, Jacqueline, located upstairs. If you prefer wine, the menu has an extensive wine selection from different countries in Europe namely from France, Spain and Italy. To accompany our starters we had a Mosel Riesling 2017 from Germany and for our main we switch to red with a Spanish wine 8 Vents Mallorca. A glass of wine varies from 290 baht to 890 baht, for a bottle price starts at 1,400 vaht.
Evaluation: Overall Quince offers a consistent menu with bold flavors. The service is prompt and friendly. The sommelier would assist you to choose the wine to pair with your meal and might even offer you to taste the wine before your order. This is a place that you would be pleased to return to with friends, but be prepared to spend a bit more than what you would at your usual casual dining spot.