SCRUFFY APRON

By : MICHAEL MOORE

26 January 2016

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summary : International comfort dishes served in an all day dining setting located in an elegant mall.

Located near the start of the circular walkway leading from the 6th to 9th floor of Helix Quartier, Scruffy Apron is run by the group behind the two highly regarded Hyde and Seek outlets. Like its sisters, Scruffy Apron features “comfort food,” a phrase somewhat indiscriminately used to refer to basic, homely dishes that people enjoyed while growing up – especially when childhood was spent in a Western country. Comfort food is meant to stir pleasant memories of mom, satisfying food and life like it was in the good old days.

Scruffy Apron's interior is pleasant, but a bit schizophrenic. We're not sure if the classic French chandeliers blend with the raw wood floors, brick walls, dark timber tables and the vintage zinc bar found in the middle of things. It comes across as being a bit of faux everything. Chic it is not, but on the other hand, there is no denying it is unique and the view is great.

The menu is extensive, covering everything from soups, salads, pastas, sandwiches, meats, seafood and some imaginative main courses. We started things off with a tasty bowl of fries and then had our favorite dish, Tuna Salad Nicoise (365 baht) with excellent seared tuna. We also enjoyed the Burrata, Charred Tomato, Charred Onion Salad (250 baht) – although hard to classify as comfort food, the burrata was great. The hot dog and the Double Deck Cheeseburger with Egg (450 baht) we tried – both full-blown comfort dishes – were surprisingly disappointing. The hot dog, which we are sure has a great pedigree, came perched atop a bun and didn't make the comfort food juices run. The hamburger patty was a disaster – devoid both of juice and real flavor. It tasted very much like it had been cooked and then reheated.

The drinks menu is extensive and imaginative; The Popsicle (320 baht) made with Tanqueray gin, lychee liqueur and a host of the goodies is delightful.

Frankly, we were a little disappointed with Scruffy Apron. The food was OK, but it didn’t match the Hyde and Seek outlets. Our general impression was that the effort lavished upon the Hyde and Seek's is lacking at this outlet.